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By Margy Rydzynski / Special To The Advocate
Thursday, August 15, 2002
The Farmers' Market comes to Arlington each Wednesday, from 2 to 6:30 p.m., in the Russell Common parking lot in Arlington Center.
For city dwellers so close to Boston, the market presents a rare opportunity to buy farm-fresh food, herbs, flowers and other products without having to drive to the countryside, an hour or more away. This time of year the rough, wooden stalls are overflowing with the bounty of summer as freshly harvested fruits and vegetables vie for the bags of supermarket-weary shoppers. Also for sale are eggs and locally-made cheeses, fresh-baked breads and pies, and some meats. Customers can also buy fresh cut flowers and vegetable and herb plants for their gardens.
Judging by its overwhelming popularity, the Farmers Market is an institution here to stay. On Wednesdays the market corner of the Russell Common parking lot is transformed into a pedestrian zone, a swirling sea of activity with customers peering over tables laden with food, squeezing tomatoes, examining melons or dipping their hands into crates of green beans and peas.
Conversation flows as freely as the produce, as farmers weigh handfuls of cucumbers and zucchini while answering gardening questions, offering cooking tips and engaging in endless varieties of small talk.
Arlington market-goers are a friendly group and appreciate the market's many offerings.
"Everyone's really nice," said Jen Smith, of Smith Country Cheese in Winchendon. "They're laid back and happy to get locally-produced items."
Smith Country Cheese is enjoying its third summer in Arlington. It sells its own gouda and cheddar cheeses as well as lean, hormone-free ground beef from their dairy herds. They also sell fresh eggs, courtesy of Johnson's Poultry Farm in Winchester.
Kara Boettinger, who works for Grateful Farms in Franklin, said she enjoys the interaction with families, working people and senior citizens. Grateful Farms is the Market's organic vendor, which provides shoppers with conventional produce as well as such exotic items as tatsoi, mei qing choi (both salad and braising-type greens) and purslane. Grateful Farms has been in Arlington about four years and also sells in Harvard Square and Cambridgeport.
"Tim (Garboski, the owner) likes to grow regular stuff and some different things, too," she said, "so people can try cooking some of the foods they've been introduced to in restaurants." These are the types of vegetables that might otherwise be found only in specialty markets and gourmet shops. Grateful Farms also sells a large variety of herb plants for home gardeners.
Steve Parker of Parker Farms is one of several new vendors. He's also an Arlington native and is looking forward to selling his wares back "home." Steve finds the market "very relaxing, almost like a little vacation" compared to the toils of his one-man operation, which includes a second farm stand in Waltham and fields both there and in Lunenberg. Most of his produce is sold to about 10 local restaurants: he's just getting into the farmers market business.
Like most of the farmers here, Steve puts in a very long day that for him includes planting, harvesting and then distributing the food he grows. His days often began at 5 a.m. and can end as late as 9 or 10 p.m. He feels it's worth it, though and - like the other farmers - he doesn't really mind doing it.
Kimball Fruit Farms of Pepperell is one of the larger vendors and has been in Arlington since the market began six years ago. They're also one of the busiest, working eight markets a week in Cambridge, Newton, Somerville and Brookline. Among their many specialties are heirloom tomatoes, along with several tables of fresh fruits and vegetables, including some exotics like garlic scapes, the flowering part of the garlic plant that must be cut in order for the bulb underneath to develop. It has a mild, garlic-like flavor that is good braised or in salads. They also sell fresh-baked pies and breads.
"Arlington people really appreciate the produce," said Wendy Hills-Longland, who is sister to owner Carl and his wife Marie Hills. "They're very nice. There's no pushing, no shoving, they're very polite and patient."
She also added the other farmers are quite cooperative and friendly. Once, she said, when she forgot to bring a scale three other farmers offered her one of theirs.
Other vendors - Dick's Market Garden, Nicewicz Orchard, Melissa's Flowers and Busa Farm - offer a wide assortment of vegetables, fruits, plants, flowers and prepared foods. Some local organizations also rent space at the market. For example, the Arlington Garden Club had a small, volunteer-run, stand here a few weeks ago. Market-goers lucky enough to be visiting that day could add baked goods, home-made chili and baked beans to their dinners that evening. Other local entities - churches, parent-teacher associations and senior groups - also sell at the market from time to time.
As much of a boon as it is to Arlington residents, the Farmers' Markets offer a reciprocal benefit to the growers. These are small farmers, who depend heavily on the revenues generated by the markets. Without them, many could not afford to stay in business. Reciprocity is the name of the game: Arlington customers support a vital aspect of the local economy at the same time they're enjoying the fruits of the harvest.
The Arlington Food Pantry may be spreading the bounty further via a produce-donation program to struggling families in the community. Business is also on board. Just recently Arlington's Prose Restaurant, at 352A Massachusetts Ave., added a "Farmers' Market Special" to its menu, featuring locally grown produce and Smith Farm's gouda. It uses local produce for its other menu items as well.
The Arlington Farmers' Market will be open until Oct. 23 after which time it will be closing down for the winter. It will re-open in late June 2003.
Margy Rydzynski is a freelance food writer and cooking enthusiast. A resident of Arlington, she can be reached at tupmargy@mindspring.com
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